Palms, Parties, and Pink Cotton Candy
Palm Springs sparkles with mid-century glamour, healing hot springs, and endless sunshine. Named for the natural hot springs of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, this desert oasis sits at the base of Mount San Jacinto, creating a unique microclimate that attracted Hollywood stars beginning in the 1920s. What started as a health resort for tuberculosis patients transformed into a playground for the rich and famous—a two-hour drive from Los Angeles, where celebrities could escape, party, and be themselves away from studio contracts and prying eyes. Today, it’s a living museum of mid-century modern architecture, a golf mecca, and a place where pool parties and piano bars coexist with sacred Native American sites.
This long weekend guide (3 days, 2 nights) shows you how to fall in love with the desert playground that still attracts those seeking reinvention and relaxation. Visit in late May or early June when it’s blissfully uncrowded and cooler than the rest of summer. Rent a car— Uber’s add up fast between date farms and downtown. You will want to cruise the neighborhood, gawking at mid-century houses.
Friday: Pool Time and Tiki Vibes
Book a room at the Riviera Palm Springs, located north of downtown, about 1.6 miles from the main shopping and dining area. This iconic property opened in 1959 as the brainchild of Irwin Schuman, who already owned the famous Chi Chi nightclub. The Riviera hosted Frank Sinatra, Elvis, Bing Crosby, and the Rat Pack performances, and is designed in a radial spoke-wheel layout, first for hotels. After various incarnations (including a stint as Margaritaville), the property is returning to its original Riviera name.
Check into the Riviera and spend the afternoon lounging by their famous pool—the property has always been known for its pool scene. Cool off with a swim before getting ready for the evening.
Head to Bootlegger Tiki on North Palm Canyon Drive around sunset. This intimate bar sits where Don the Beachcomber opened in 1953, hosting Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, and Mayor Frank Bogert. Today, Bootlegger pays homage to bamboo-covered walls, blowfish light fixtures, and delicious cocktails. Try the 1934 Zombie with its secret rum blend. The space is tiny, so call ahead for a reservation. Make it an early night; tomorrow is packed.
Saturday: Sacred Waters, Sinatra, and The King
Morning: Healing Springs
Start at The Spa at Séc-he (pronounced “SAY-shay”), part of the Agua Caliente Cultural Plaza. This 73,000-square-foot sanctuary is built on the sacred hot mineral spring that inspired the tribe’s name—Séc-he means “the sound of boiling water” in Cahuilla. Book your “Taking of the Waters” experience well in advance. You’ll reserve a specific 15-minute soak in the 105-degree healing waters. The time limit is perfect; the mineral-rich water is powerful. Enjoy the steam room and sauna too.
Walk next door to the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum. The Creation Migration Theater offers a 12-minute, 360-degree animated presentation of the tribe’s creation story. Browse the museum store for Native American art and jewelry.
Head across the street to Sherman’s Deli & Bakery for brunch. This New York-style deli has a serious Hollywood history. Wisconsin native Sherman Harris moved to Palm Springs in the 1950s and by 1980 had five delis that became regular hangouts for Frank Sinatra, Red Skelton, Zsa Zsa Gabor, and Rita Hayworth. Try their enormous omelets or the legendary #17 sandwich—corned beef, pastrami, and turkey with coleslaw and Thousand Island dressing on rye. The matzo ball soup arrives in a bowl big enough to swim in. Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives, Sherman’s proves that sometimes the best meal is the one that requires a nap afterward—but there’s no time for that, too much to see in Frank’s desert playground.
Afternoon: Celebrity Homes and Icons
Drive by Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms house at 1148 East Alejo Road in the Movie Colony neighborhood. Designed by E. Stewart Williams in 1947, this was Sinatra’s first home, where he lived from 1948 to 1957. The house features his famous piano-shaped pool and those two tall palm trees that gave the estate its name. It’s now a vacation rental, and during Modernism Week, self-guided tours are available. Otherwise, admire the mid-century modern architecture from the street.
Continue to the Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway at 1350 Ladera Circle. Elvis and Priscilla honeymooned here in 1967. Legend says Elvis carried Priscilla through the door singing “Hawaiian Wedding Song,” and Lisa Marie was conceived here. The William Krisel home features four circular pods floating above the desert.
Explore North Palm Canyon Drive in the Uptown Design District. Visit The Shag Store, dedicated to artist Josh Agle (Shag—combining the last two letters of Josh and the first two of Agle). His style draws from the 1950s-60s commercial illustration with modern humor. Shag’s paintings of martini-sipping beautiful people in mid-century settings have become synonymous with Palm Springs.
Stop by the Forever Marilyn statue in Downtown Park. The 26-foot sculpture recreates Monroe’s Seven Year Itch scene. After the controversy about blocking the art museum, it moved to Downtown Park in February 2025. Nearly a million visitors saw it in 2024.
Evening: Hollywood Glamour
Dress up for Melvyn’s Restaurant & Bar at the Ingleside Estate (collared shirt and dress pants required for men). This is authentic Hollywood glamour—curved banquettes, mood lighting, and live music. Order a proper martini and enjoy classic American cuisine. Stay for the live music. You’ll half expect Sinatra to walk through the door.
Sunday: Desert Agriculture and Cotton Candy
Morning: Date Farm Adventure
Drive to Aziz Farms in the Coachella Valley. Owner Mark Tadros leads engaging tours about date cultivation—how these “candy that grows on trees” are grown and harvested in the desert. Medjool dates are like nature’s caramel; Barhi dates taste like butterscotch candy.
On your way back to Palm Springs, stop at Shields Date Garden in Indio. Since 1924, this roadside attraction has been serving its famous date shakes—thick, creamy concoctions made with their exclusive date crystals that taste like the best caramel milkshake you’ve ever had. Floyd and Bess Shields were pioneers in the dating industry, even creating their varieties like the “Blonde” and “Brunette” dates you can only get here. Watch their quirky 15-minute film The Romance and Sex Life of the Date (it’s about date farming, not what you think), browse the old-fashioned gift shop, and try a date shake. It’s a Palm Springs tradition you can’t skip.
Midday: Mountain Views
Take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway—the world’s largest rotating tram car—up 8,516 feet. The temperature drops 30 degrees during the 10-minute ride. Have lunch at the Mountain Station with valley views below.
Afternoon: Gazpacho and Cotton Candy
End at Lulu California Bistro, where “there’s always a party.” Grab a patio table on Palm Canyon Drive and start with their refreshing watermelon gazpacho with feta and mint. Save room for their handspun pink cotton candy, arriving like a cloud of nostalgia. Linger over rosé—your weekend isn’t quite over.
The airport is 15 minutes from downtown, so squeeze in every dessert moment. Palm Springs makes you feel simultaneously glamorous and relaxed. Three days let you unwind, not race between attractions. From tiki culture to Hollywood history, from sacred springs to pink cotton candy, this desert oasis offers every form of escape
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